Egypt · Mediterranean Coast

Alexandria

The city Alexander founded and Cleopatra ruled, now a faded, sea-sprayed Mediterranean port whose ancient wonders lie mostly underwater.

Alexander the Great founded it and Cleopatra ruled from it, but almost none of that city stands above ground: the lighthouse lies in the harbour and the ancient library is gone. What remains is a long, salt-worn Mediterranean corniche, the Citadel of Qaitbay built on the lighthouse's foundations, Roman catacombs and a marble theatre, and the Bibliotheca Alexandrina, a modern library raised as the old one's successor. Egypt's second city is slower, breezier and more seaward-looking than Cairo, with belle-epoque cafes and some of the best seafood in the country.

Suggested stay

2–3 days

Language

Arabic

Currency

EGP

Timezone

UTC+3

Why you'll love Alexandria

The corniche  a seafront road curving around the bays the length of the city, best walked at dusk when everyone comes out to the sea wall

Ancient layers  Roman catacombs, a marble theatre and Pompey's Pillar, the fragments of the Ptolemaic capital that survived above ground

Seafood  choose your fish from the ice by weight and have it grilled or baked with rice in a port that still eats from its own sea

Cafe culture  belle-epoque coffeehouses and Greek patisseries left over from the cosmopolitan century when the city looked to Europe

Best time to visit

all year

18-31° days

Alexandria

31.199° N, 29.895° E

UTC+3 · Africa/Cairo

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Weather & when to go to Alexandria

Month by month: typical highs and lows, rainfall and rain days.

✓ Best all year

Jan
18°
10°
61mm
8d rain
Feb
19°
10°
35mm
5d rain
Mar
21°
12°
13mm
3d rain
Apr
24°
14°
3mm
1d rain
May
27°
18°
1mm
1d rain
Jun
29°
22°
0mm
0d rain
Jul
31°
24°
0mm
0d rain
Aug
31°
24°
0mm
0d rain
Sep
30°
23°
1mm
0d rain
Oct
28°
19°
8mm
1d rain
Nov
24°
15°
37mm
4d rain
Dec
20°
11°
53mm
6d rain

Cards tinted by calculated verdict · big number = typical daily high, small = low · hover for conditions

When to avoid Alexandria

No bad season. Winter stays mild and brings the year's only rain in short, blustery bursts that throw spray over the corniche, while summer is when Cairenes pour in to escape the heat, so city beaches and seafront hotels are at their most crowded, especially over the Eid holidays.

Top things to do in Alexandria

  1. Citadel of Qaitbay - the fort on the lighthouse site

    history 👍 Popular

    A fifteenth-century Mamluk fortress at the tip of the Eastern Harbour, built partly from the fallen stones of the Pharos lighthouse. Walk the ramparts for the view back along the corniche, with waves breaking on the rocks below.

  2. Bibliotheca Alexandrina - the library reborn

    culture arts history 👍 Popular

    A vast tilted disc of a building on the Eastern Harbour, its granite outer wall carved with letters from scripts around the world. Inside, the reading room steps down in terraces, with small antiquities and manuscript museums and a planetarium alongside.

  3. Catacombs of Kom el-Shoqafa - Egyptian gods in Roman dress

    history ⭐ Highly recommended

    Second-century tombs cut several levels into the rock, reached down a spiral stair around a shaft once used to lower the dead. The central tomb shows Anubis and other Egyptian gods dressed as Roman soldiers, the city's mixed culture carved in stone.

  4. Kom el-Dikka - the Roman theatre in the city centre

    history

    A small horseshoe of white marble tiers uncovered under a downtown hill, beside the remains of baths, lecture halls and the Villa of the Birds with its floor mosaics. Compact, and an easy walk from Raml Station.

  5. Pompey's Pillar - the column on the Serapeum hill

    history

    A single granite column, raised for the emperor Diocletian and misnamed by later travellers, standing on the site of the Serapeum temple with a pair of sphinxes and underground galleries around it. Combine it with the catacombs nearby.

  6. Montaza Palace Gardens - royal grounds on the eastern bays

    scenic 👍 Popular

    The last king's summer estate at the far eastern end of the city: pine and palm gardens, sheltered coves and a turreted palace you view from outside. Egyptian families picnic here in numbers on Fridays and holidays.

  7. Anfushi fish restaurants - seafood by weight

    food ⭐ Highly recommended

    In the old Bahary quarter behind the Western Harbour, places like Kadoura lay the day's catch on ice: point at fish, prawns or squid, pay by weight, and it comes grilled or fried with salads, tahini and sayadeya rice.

  8. Raml Station cafes - Trianon, Delices and the Cavafy Museum

    culture arts food

    The old centre around Saad Zaghloul Square keeps its Greek-era patisseries and grand coffeehouses, Delices and Trianon among them. A short walk away, the poet Cavafy's flat is preserved as a small museum.

  9. Alexandria National Museum - the city in one villa

    history culture arts

    An Italianate mansion holding a compact run of the city's history from pharaonic statuary through Ptolemaic, Roman and Coptic pieces to Islamic objects, including finds raised from the harbour floor.

  10. Abu al-Abbas al-Mursi Mosque - the saint of the harbour

    culture arts history

    The city's best-loved mosque honours a thirteenth-century Andalusian Sufi saint, rebuilt in the twentieth century in cream stone with a tall minaret and arabesque domes. It stands in Anfushi, close to the fort.

  11. Eastern Harbour - dive the sunken royal quarter

    history adventure

    Shallow dives off Qaitbay and in the harbour pass toppled columns, sphinxes and blocks from the lighthouse and the Ptolemaic palace district. Visibility is often poor, and it is archaeology underwater rather than reef diving.

Best areas to stay in Alexandria

$ Budget $$ Mid-range $$$ Premium

Live nightly prices from Booking.com, Agoda and others, centred on Alexandria

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Getting to & around Alexandria

Getting there

Fly into HBE west of the city, or ride the train up from Cairo, which is how most visitors arrive

Flight

Borg El Arab International Airport (HBE)

Borg El Arab sits in the desert southwest of the city and is now Alexandria's only commercial airport. Taxis and ride-hail apps reach Downtown in around an hour, longer when the coast road is busy.

Train

Misr Station

Frequent trains from Cairo's Ramses Station take around 2.5-3 hr, stopping at Sidi Gaber before ending at Misr Station near the centre

Coach

Moharram Bey bus station

Coaches run from Cairo and the Delta along the desert road, with some companies also stopping near Sidi Gaber

Cruise

Alexandria Port

Mediterranean cruise ships dock at the main port on the Western Harbour, many running excursions on to Cairo and Giza

Getting around

Ride-hail

Uber and Careem are the easiest way along the corniche for most visitors: no haggling, and the driver knows the address

TBC

Trams, minibuses and street taxis are paid in cash on board or to the driver; ride-hail apps take cards or cash.

Taxi

Black-and-yellow taxis cruise the corniche constantly; agree the fare before you get in

TBC

Tram

One of Africa's oldest tram systems, slow and characterful; the Raml line has been slated for rebuilding, so check it is running

TBC

Walking

Good between Raml Station, the library, Kom el-Dikka and the fort; the city is long and thin, so ride between distant districts

Free

Day trips from Alexandria

Rosetta (Rashid)

Half day

Ottoman merchant town

The Nile-mouth town where the Rosetta Stone was found, with a run of brick Ottoman merchant houses with carved wooden screens, the Qaitbay fort of Rashid and boats working the river.

Getting there

car | tour

About 1 hr each way by car or tour

El Alamein

Full day

WWII battlefield

The 1942 desert battlefield, with the Commonwealth war cemetery, the German and Italian memorials on the coast road and a military museum. Pair it with a swim off the white-sand North Coast beaches.

Getting there

car | tour

About 1.5-2 hr each way west by car or tour

Abu Qir

Half day

Fishing bay

The bay where Nelson destroyed Napoleon's fleet in 1798, now a fishing suburb known across the city for seafood eaten on the water, and offshore the sunken ruins of Canopus and Heracleion.

Getting there

car

About 45 min east by car or taxi

Wadi el-Natrun

Full day

Desert monasteries

Four walled Coptic monasteries in a desert depression, among the oldest in Christianity and still home to working communities of monks, who often show visitors around the old churches themselves.

Getting there

car

About 1.5 hr each way by car on the desert road

A little history of Alexandria

Alexander the Great founded the city in 331 BC on a strip of land between the sea and Lake Mariout, and his general Ptolemy made it the capital of a Greek-speaking dynasty that ruled Egypt for three centuries. Under the Ptolemies it became the largest city of the Mediterranean, home to the Pharos lighthouse, one of the seven wonders, and the Library and Mouseion that drew scholars from across the known world. Cleopatra VII was the last of the line, and Rome took the city after her death in 30 BC.

The Arab conquest of 641 moved Egypt's capital inland, earthquakes brought down the lighthouse, and the city shrank to a small port. Muhammad Ali's canal to the Nile revived it in the nineteenth century, and Greeks, Italians, Jews and Levantines built the cosmopolitan city of Cavafy and Durrell. Most of those communities left after 1956, and the city has since faced its own Arab Mediterranean shore.

Timeline
331 BC

Alexander the Great founds the city on the coast west of the Nile delta

c. 280 BC

The Pharos lighthouse is completed on the island at the harbour mouth

30 BC

Cleopatra VII dies and Egypt passes to Rome, with Alexandria as its capital

365

A tsunami from an earthquake off Crete floods the city and sinks part of the royal quarter

641

Arab armies take the city and Egypt's capital moves inland to Fustat

1477

Sultan Qaitbay builds his fortress on the site of the fallen lighthouse

1820

The Mahmoudiya Canal reconnects the city to the Nile and trade returns

1956

Nasser announces the nationalisation of the Suez Canal in a speech in Alexandria

2002

The Bibliotheca Alexandrina opens near the presumed site of the ancient library

Know before you go

Payment

Cash preferred

English

Widely spoken

Wifi

Workable

Power

Type C / F

230 V, 50 Hz

Dialing

+20

Mobile network & SIM card

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FAQs about Alexandria

▸ When is the best time to visit Alexandria?

Any month works. The sea keeps the city milder than Cairo all year: winter is cool and brings the only rain, in short blustery spells, while summer is warm and humid but breezy on the corniche. Summer is also peak domestic season, so expect busy beaches and fuller hotels then.

▸ How many days do you need in Alexandria?

Two days covers the fort, the library, the catacombs, Pompey's Pillar and Kom el-Dikka with time for a long seafood dinner. A third day lets you add Montaza, a museum and a slow evening on the corniche, or a half-day trip to Rosetta.

▸ Can you visit Alexandria as a day trip from Cairo?

You can, by early train or car, but it is a long day of about five or six hours in transit for a city that rewards an overnight. Staying a night lets you see the main sites at an easy pace and catch the corniche at dusk, which is half the point.

▸ What is left of ancient Alexandria?

Less than the name promises. The lighthouse, the library, Cleopatra's palaces and Alexander's tomb are all gone or underwater. What survives is Roman and later: the catacombs, the theatre at Kom el-Dikka, Pompey's Pillar and the finds displayed in the city's museums.

▸ Can you swim at Alexandria's beaches?

Yes, but the city beaches are crowded and conservative, and many women swim covered. Hotel and club beaches at San Stefano and Montaza are calmer. For clear water and white sand, Egyptians head west along the North Coast toward El Alamein.

▸ Is Alexandria safe for visitors?

Crime against visitors is uncommon, and the city feels less pressured than Cairo, with far less hustling at the sites. Traffic on the corniche is the everyday hazard, so cross carefully. Dress conservatively, especially away from the hotel strips, and women travelling alone should expect some street harassment.

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