United Kingdom · Southwest England

Cornwall (St Ives)

Britain's westernmost county: Atlantic surf on one coast, subtropical creeks on the other, and an entire coastline you can walk.

Cornwall is the long granite peninsula at the far southwest of Britain, narrow enough that you can stand on the Atlantic side in the morning and be on a sheltered creek by lunch. The north coast is cliffs, engine houses and wide surf beaches taking the full weight of the ocean; the south is estuaries, sailing water and gardens where the Gulf Stream lets palms and tree ferns grow outdoors. Between them sit fishing harbours, a Celtic identity with its own language and flag, a World Heritage mining landscape, and the light around St Ives that has pulled painters here for well over a century.

Suggested stay

4–7 days

Language

English

Currency

GBP

Timezone

UTC+1

Why you'll love Cornwall (St Ives)

Two coasts  the north takes the swell in cliffs and mile-wide beaches, the south folds into wooded creeks and ferry crossings, and they sit half an hour apart

The light  low sea light off three sides of a thin peninsula, which is the real reason the artists came west and stayed

The coast path  a waymarked trail follows the entire coastline, so a cliff walk between coves starts from wherever you are sleeping

Food  a proper day-boat seafood coast, plus the two things Cornwall will argue about with you - the pasty, and which way round jam and cream go on a scone

Best time to visit

May-Sep

15-19° days

Fair weather Oct-Apr
Cornwall (St Ives)

50.215° N, 5.479° W

UTC+1 · Europe/London

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Weather & when to go to Cornwall (St Ives)

Month by month: typical highs and lows, rainfall and rain days.

✓ Best May-Sep

Jan
121mm
10d rain
Feb
95mm
11d rain
Mar
10°
72mm
9d rain
Apr
12°
73mm
5d rain
May
15°
61mm
5d rain
Jun
17°
11°
63mm
7d rain
Jul
19°
13°
69mm
6d rain
Aug
19°
13°
79mm
7d rain
Sep
17°
12°
78mm
9d rain
Oct
15°
10°
111mm
13d rain
Nov
12°
130mm
11d rain
Dec
10°
126mm
12d rain

Cards tinted by calculated verdict · big number = typical daily high, small = low · hover for conditions

When to avoid Cornwall (St Ives)

There is no bad season on this coast, only bad timing: late July and August are the English school holidays, when the main road down the county crawls, the beach car parks are full by mid-morning and cottages have been booked for months. Winter is mild rather than cold but it is dark, wet and properly windy, with Atlantic storms coming straight in and a fair share of harbour-town kitchens, boat trips and attractions shut until spring.

Top things to do in Cornwall (St Ives)

  1. St Michael's Mount - the tidal causeway to the island castle

    history scenic 👍 Popular

    A castle-topped rock in Mount's Bay that you walk out to across a granite causeway at low tide and come back from by boat once the sea has closed behind you. The climb up the cobbled path leads to a medieval church and rooms still lived in by the family that has held the place for centuries, with terraced subtropical gardens clinging to the rock below. Check the tide before you set out, not after.

  2. Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden - the studio left as she had it

    culture arts ⭐ Highly recommended

    Hepworth's Trewyn studio in the middle of St Ives, with her tools still on the bench and her bronzes standing in the subtropical garden she planted around them. It is a small, quiet, extraordinary place, and it makes far more sense of the town's modernist story than any wall text can.

  3. Tate St Ives - the modern art the town produced

    culture arts

    Built into the hillside above the surf beach on the site of the old gasworks, showing the painters and sculptors who made St Ives one of the few places in Britain where modernism actually took root. The upper windows frame the beach and the bay, which is the point: you look at a Nicholson, then at the thing he was looking at.

  4. Minack Theatre - the amphitheatre cut into the cliff at Porthcurno

    culture arts scenic 👍 Popular

    Rowena Cade and two gardeners carved a Greek-style theatre out of the granite above a turquoise cove, and spent decades adding seats, steps and carved names by hand. Performances run through the warmer months with the Atlantic as the backdrop and gannets crossing the stage, and you can walk the terraces on a normal day too. Bring a cushion and something windproof, whatever the forecast says.

  5. South West Coast Path - cliff walking between coves

    hiking scenic nature wildlife ⭐ Highly recommended

    The waymarked trail runs the whole Cornish coastline, and the stretches near the western tip are the ones people come back for: St Ives to Zennor over bracken and boulders, Porthcurno round to Land's End, the Lizard's serpentine headlands. Buses and branch lines let you walk one way and ride back, which is how to do the best sections without doubling anything.

  6. Fistral, Watergate Bay and the north-coast surf beaches

    surfing adventure

    Atlantic swell hits the north coast head on, and the beach breaks between Sennen and Bude are where most of Britain learns to surf. Summer brings the smallest, friendliest waves and the warmest water for lessons and board hire; September through November is when the swell lines up properly and the crowds have gone. Wetsuits are worn year-round here, not because it is freezing but because it is never warm.

  7. Kynance Cove and Lizard Point - the southernmost headland

    scenic nature wildlife

    Serpentine stacks and islands standing in white sand and impossibly green water, reached down a steep path from the clifftop, with caves and a tidal beach that vanishes at high water. Lizard Point a short walk on is the most southerly ground in mainland Britain, and the whole peninsula carries flowers found almost nowhere else in the country.

  8. Geevor and Botallack - the tin mines on the Atlantic cliffs

    history scenic

    The engine houses at Botallack stand on a ledge above the surf with their shafts running out under the seabed, and at Geevor, which worked until 1990, you can go underground and talk to people who were miners here. This coast was once the most concentrated hard-rock mining district in the world, and the ruins along it are World Heritage listed rather than picturesque accidents.

  9. Eden Project - the biomes in a worked-out clay pit

    nature wildlife culture arts 👍 Popular

    Two vast linked domes in a china clay crater near St Austell, one a humid rainforest with a canopy walkway and a waterfall, the other Mediterranean scrub and citrus. It is unashamedly a day out with children in mind, and it is also the most convincing thing to do in Cornwall when the rain sets in for a whole day.

  10. Lost Gardens of Heligan - the estate that came back from the bramble

    nature wildlife history

    The gardeners went to the First World War and did not come back, and the Victorian pleasure grounds disappeared under bramble for seventy years until a restoration in the 1990s dug them out. The productive walled gardens are worked by hand as they were, and a jungle valley of tree ferns and rope bridges drops away below, along with the two turf-and-moss sculptures everyone photographs.

  11. Cornish seafood and the pasty - eating on a working fishing coast

    food

    Newlyn is one of the busiest fishing ports in England, so crab, hake, mackerel, scallops and monkfish come off day boats a few miles from the plate, and Padstow built a national reputation on cooking them. The pasty is the other half of the story, a crimped miner's lunch of beef, potato, swede and onion, still baked to a protected recipe and best eaten from a bakery with your back to a wall out of the wind.

Best areas to stay in Cornwall (St Ives)

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Getting to & around Cornwall (St Ives)

Getting there

Most people take the mainline train from London and change at St Erth for the branch line into St Ives, or drive the A30 down the spine of the county; the small airport at Newquay handles a handful of UK routes

Flight

Cornwall Airport Newquay (NQY)

About 50 km northeast of St Ives, roughly an hour by road. It is a small airport with domestic flights from London, Manchester and a few other UK cities, plus the hop to the Isles of Scilly. There is no direct public transport to St Ives, so it means a hire car, a taxi, or a bus into Newquay and a slow train around the county; plenty of visitors skip it and take the train the whole way instead

Train

St Ives station, change at St Erth

Direct services run from London Paddington to Penzance in around five hours, with the change at St Erth for the short branch line that hugs the bay into St Ives - one of the best short rail rides in Britain. An overnight sleeper also runs from London to Penzance

Coach

Penzance and the main towns

Long-distance coaches run from London, Heathrow, Bristol and the Midlands. Much slower than the train and an all-day commitment from London, but the simplest single-ticket option

Drive

The A30 runs the length of the county from Exeter and is the only fast road in; reckon on the best part of a day from London. Saturdays in high summer are changeover day for holiday lets and the last stretch can crawl for hours

Getting around

Car

The practical way to see a county this spread out, with the standing caveats: single-track lanes behind high hedges, and car parks at the popular coves full by mid-morning through summer

TBC

Contactless tap-on works on local buses and at station gates; there is no Cornwall-specific smartcard, and day or week bus passes are bought from the driver or in an app

Walking

The towns are small and steep and the coast path links a surprising number of them, so plenty of the best days here need no vehicle at all

Free

Train

The mainline runs through Truro and Redruth to Penzance, with scenic branch lines out to St Ives, Falmouth, Newquay and Looe. Useful between towns, useless for reaching a remote cove

TBC

Bus

Links the main towns and many coastal villages, with open-top routes along the western cliffs in summer. Rural timetables thin out sharply in the evenings and in winter, so check the last bus before you commit to a one-way walk

TBC

Passenger ferry

Small foot ferries shortcut the south-coast estuaries - Falmouth to St Mawes, Padstow to Rock, the chain ferry across the Fal - and save long inland detours

TBC

Day trips from Cornwall (St Ives)

St Michael's Mount and Marazion

Half day

Tidal island castle

Walk the causeway out at low tide and take the boat back when the sea closes over it, with a castle, a medieval church and terraced subtropical gardens on the rock. Time the visit around the tide tables rather than your own schedule.

Getting there

car | train | bus | walk

About 30 min by car, or train to Penzance and a short bus

Land's End, Porthcurno and the Minack

Full day

Far-western cliffs

The westernmost point of mainland England, the white-sand cove at Porthcurno with the cliff theatre carved above it, the surf beach at Sennen, and a museum in the tunnels where the transatlantic telegraph cables came ashore. The cliffs are the draw, not the signpost.

Getting there

car | bus

45 min to 1 hr by car; open-top buses run the coast road in summer

The Lizard Peninsula

Full day

Southernmost headlands

Kynance Cove's serpentine stacks and green water, the southernmost point of mainland Britain, and thatched fishing coves like Cadgwith where boats still work off the shingle. The heathland flora up top is rare enough to be why much of it is protected.

Getting there

car

About 1 hr 15 by car

Eden Project and the Lost Gardens of Heligan

Full day

Gardens in clay country

Two contrasting garden projects within a short drive of each other on the south coast: biome domes of rainforest and Mediterranean planting in an old clay pit, and a Victorian estate garden restored out of seventy years of bramble. The best wet-weather day in the county.

Getting there

car | train | bus

About 1 hr 15 by car, or train to St Austell and a bus

Isles of Scilly

1-2 days

Atlantic archipelago

White sand, water that looks Caribbean on a good day, a subtropical abbey garden and inter-island boats. It works as a long day out but rewards a night or two, and the crossing is famously rough when the swell is up, so fly if you are a poor sailor.

Getting there

ferry | flight

Ferry from Penzance takes about 2 hr 45; flights from Land's End or Newquay take under 20 min

Tintagel and the north coast

Full day

Arthurian clifftop ruin

Ruined walls split between a headland and the mainland, now rejoined by a slender footbridge, on a site that really was an important trading stronghold long before the Arthur legend attached itself. Pair it with the harbour at Boscastle and the slate cliffs either side.

Getting there

car

About 1 hr 30 by car

A little history of Cornwall (St Ives)

Cornwall has been mining and shipping metal for as long as anyone has been writing things down. Tin from its river gravels and granite lodes fed Bronze Age trade routes across Atlantic Europe, and by the 18th and 19th centuries the far west was the most concentrated hard-rock mining district in the world, with beam engines pumping water out of shafts that ran under the seabed. When the price collapsed, Cornish miners took their skills to South Africa, Australia and the Americas in one of the largest emigrations of its kind, which is why mining towns on four continents carry Cornish surnames and Cornish pasties.

The other Cornwall is Celtic and maritime. It kept its own language into the 18th century and its own sense of not-quite-England ever since, and it lived off pilchards and the sea. The railway changed everything twice over: it collapsed the journey from London, invented Cornwall as a holiday coast, and brought painters west to Newlyn and St Ives for cheap fishing lofts and extraordinary light. That second wave produced the one genuinely international art movement to come out of a British seaside town, and the tourism it seeded is now what the county lives on.

Timeline
936

Athelstan is said to fix the boundary between England and Cornwall at the River Tamar, where it still runs

1337

The Duchy of Cornwall is created to provide an income for the heir to the English throne, as it still does

1497

Cornish rebels march on London against taxes raised for a war in Scotland, and are cut down at Blackheath

1801

Richard Trevithick drives the first full-size steam road carriage up Camborne Hill, ahead of the railway age his high-pressure engines made possible

1859

Brunel's Royal Albert Bridge carries the railway over the Tamar and opens Cornwall to the rest of the country

1877

The branch line opens along the bay into St Ives, the last broad-gauge railway built in Britain

1880s

Painters settle at Newlyn and then St Ives, drawn by the light, the working harbours and cheap fishing lofts

1939

Nicholson, Hepworth and Gabo move to St Ives at the outbreak of war and turn the town into a modernist colony

1993

Tate St Ives opens above the surf beach, on the site of the town's old gasworks

1998

South Crofty closes, the last working tin mine in Europe, ending thousands of years of Cornish mining

2006

The Cornwall and West Devon mining landscape is inscribed as a World Heritage Site

2014

Cornish people are formally recognised as a national minority in the UK, alongside the Welsh, Scots and Irish

Know before you go

Payment

Cards everywhere

English

Everywhere

Wifi

Workable

Power

Type G

230 V, 50 Hz

Dialing

+44

Mobile network & SIM card

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FAQs about Cornwall (St Ives)

When is the best time to visit Cornwall?

May to September is the comfortable stretch. Late May, June and September are the sweet spot: long days, everything open, and none of the late-July-and-August school-holiday crush. September has the added advantage that the sea is at its warmest after a whole summer of heating up, and the surf starts to come back.

How many days do you need in Cornwall?

Four or five nights covers one coast properly, which is the sane way to do it. A week lets you take in both, since the county is long and the lanes are slow: an hour on the map is often ninety minutes in reality. Trying to see the whole peninsula in a long weekend means spending most of it in the car.

Do you need a car in Cornwall?

For most of it, yes - the remote coves, the moor and the mining coast have little or no bus service. The exception is basing yourself in a town on the railway, such as St Ives, Penzance or Falmouth, where trains, buses, ferries and the coast path between them cover a lot of ground and save you the summer parking misery.

Is the sea warm enough to swim in?

By British standards, yes, and Cornwall is about as good as it gets in the UK thanks to the warm Atlantic drift, but nobody would call it warm. It peaks in late summer and early autumn, several months behind the air. Most locals swim year-round in a wetsuit, and surfers wear one every month of the year.

Is Cornwall good for beginner surfers?

It is where most of Britain learns. The north-coast beach breaks around Newquay, Perranporth and Sennen have sand bottoms, gentle summer waves and a surf school on nearly every beach. Autumn brings cleaner, bigger swell and thinner crowds, but that is when it stops being a beginner's ocean.

Is Cornwall expensive?

In peak summer it is one of the priciest places to stay in Britain, because demand for a fixed number of cottages and beach rooms goes vertical for six weeks. Shoulder months cost markedly less for better conditions on the paths and beaches. The county's headline attractions - the coast path, the beaches, the harbours and the cliffs - cost nothing at all.

Jam or cream first on a scone?

In Cornwall, jam first, then a spoonful of clotted cream on top. Devon, next door, does it the other way around, and neither side considers this a matter of opinion.

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