United States · Hawaii
Hilo
Hawaii with the resorts stripped out - a rainforest port town within an hour of Kilauea, under Mauna Kea and the world's greatest concentration of telescopes.
Hilo is the old port town on the wet, windward side of Hawaii's biggest island: a crescent bay, a low grid of plantation-era timber shopfronts, and rainforest that starts more or less where the street ends. It is the rainiest city in the United States and it shows, with waterfalls inside the town limits, gardens that look overfed, and a bayfront left as open parkland because two tsunamis fourteen years apart took away everything that stood on it. Most visitors come to be near the island's active volcano, three quarters of an hour up the highway, and the observatory mountain behind town, and then find they like the unhurried, unpolished town more than they expected.
Suggested stay
3–5 days
Language
English
Currency
USD
Timezone
UTC-10
Why you'll love Hilo
Kilauea the island's live caldera sits about forty-five minutes up the highway, close enough that you can walk across the crusted floor of a lava lake in the morning and be back in town for dinner
The rain this is the wettest city in the country and everything good here follows from it, with waterfalls inside the town limits, tree ferns and heliconia growing out of the road verges, and a green the dry resort coasts have no answer to
Mauna Kea the shield volcano behind town climbs to nearly fourteen thousand feet and above forty per cent of the atmosphere, carrying the largest cluster of research telescopes anywhere and a night sky to match
The town a working county seat rather than a resort strip, with wooden storefronts, a Japanese garden on the bay, a produce market full of fruit you cannot name, and the pace and prices that go with all three
Best time to visit
May-Jun, Sep, Jan
Wet year-round · 26-29° days
19.685° N, 155.100° W
UTC-10 · Pacific/Honolulu
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Weather & when to go to Hilo
Month by month: typical highs and lows, rainfall and rain days.
✓ Best May-Jun, Sep, Jan
Watch for Feb-Mar, Aug, Oct-Dec monsoon flooding risk · Jun-Nov cyclones & hurricanes risk
Cards tinted by calculated verdict · big number = typical daily high, small = low · hover for conditions
When to avoid Hilo
There is no dry season here - rain is a daily fact of life on this coast - so it is a question of degree rather than a bad time to come. The greyest, soggiest stretches are late winter and the long run from mid-autumn through the holidays, when systems park over the windward side for days at a time, and August is the hottest, stickiest month and sits in the busy half of the central Pacific storm season; January, late spring into early summer and September deliver the most usable days.
Top things to do in Hilo
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Hawaii Volcanoes National Park - the caldera, the steam vents and the lava tube
nature wildlife hiking scenic 👍 PopularThe reason most people base themselves in Hilo, and about forty-five minutes up Highway 11 through eucalyptus and cane country. The rim drive skirts a summit crater that collapsed and deepened dramatically in 2018, past ground that steams where rainwater hits hot rock and a sulphur-stained bank that smells like it sounds. Below the rim, a walk-through lava tube runs under tree-fern forest, and Chain of Craters Road drops thousands of feet to a coast where an old flow rolled straight over the highway. Whether there is lava to see on any given day is luck, not planning, so check the park's status before you drive up and treat an eruption as a bonus rather than the point.
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Mauna Kea - sunset and stars from the visitor station
nature wildlife scenic adventure 👍 PopularAn hour from town on Saddle Road, then up the mountain access road to the visitor information station at around nine thousand feet, where you stop to acclimatise and where most people should stay. The air is thin and cold enough that the temperature swing from Hilo is the shock of the trip. Beyond the station the road turns to graded dirt, needs four-wheel drive, and is not for hire cars, altitude-sensitive passengers or anyone planning to linger after dark. The summit is also a sacred landscape in Native Hawaiian tradition and a live political dispute over telescope building, which is worth understanding before you go up rather than after.
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Rainbow Falls - the waterfall at the edge of downtown
nature wildlife scenic 👍 PopularThe Wailuku River drops over a lava ledge into a round green pool about five minutes from the town centre, throwing the rainbow it is named for when the morning sun gets behind the mist. There is a car park at the top and a viewing rail thirty seconds from it, which is unusual for a waterfall of this size. The cave under the ledge is where the goddess Hina is said to have lived, and the enormous banyan grove up the steps beside the lookout is worth the extra two minutes.
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Pacific Tsunami Museum - the two waves that made the modern town
history culture arts ⭐ Highly recommendedA small museum in a heavy 1930s bank building on the bayfront, built around the 1946 and 1960 tsunamis that destroyed this waterfront twice within a generation. It is mostly survivor testimony, photographs of the wave in the bay and the science of how a Pacific-wide warning system was assembled afterwards. An hour here explains the shape of Hilo better than anything else in town, including why the block you are standing on has a park where its buildings used to be.
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Imiloa Astronomy Center - navigation and telescopes under one roof
culture arts history ⭐ Highly recommendedThree titanium cones on the university campus above town, housing a planetarium and an exhibition that deliberately runs two stories side by side: the Polynesian wayfinders who crossed the Pacific by star, swell and bird, and the observatories on the mountain that look at the same sky now. It handles the tension between them honestly instead of smoothing it over, the planetarium shows are excellent, and it is the best possible rainy afternoon in a town with many of them.
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Akaka Falls State Park - the loop walk to a long drop
nature wildlife scenicAbout twenty-five minutes north, above the old sugar village of Honomu, a paved loop of well under a mile runs through bamboo, ginger and enormous philodendron to a lookout facing a ribbon of water falling more than four hundred feet into a bowl. A second, wider falls appears through the trees on the far side of the loop. It is short, steep in places, and reliably running given how much rain this coast takes.
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Liliuokalani Gardens - Edo-style ponds on Hilo Bay
scenic culture artsThirty-odd acres of Japanese garden laid out on the bayfront in the early twentieth century in honour of the island's Japanese plantation immigrants, and named for the last queen of Hawaii. Arched bridges, stone lanterns, a torii, a teahouse and tidal ponds that rise and fall with the sea, with Mauna Kea behind it on the days the mountain is out. It survived both tsunamis, which is part of why the land around it was never rebuilt on.
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Hilo Farmers Market - the produce corner on Mamo Street
foodThe market at the downtown corner runs daily and swells to full size on its two big days, when the stalls take over the block: rambutan, mangosteen, apple bananas, dragonfruit, taro, orchids by the armful, and a run of prepared-food stalls behind. It is a genuine growers' market on an island that can produce almost anything, not a craft market with vegetables attached, and it is at its best early.
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Coconut Island - the footbridge islet in the bay
scenicA small islet off the Japanese garden, reached on a pedestrian bridge, historically a place of healing and refuge and now a picnic lawn with a stone tower that local kids jump off into the harbour. The whole circuit takes fifteen minutes and gives you the best view back at the town, the bay and the two mountains stacked behind it.
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Banyan Drive - the avenue of planted banyans
scenic historyThe hotel road around the Waiakea peninsula is lined with huge banyans, each planted by a visiting name from the 1930s onwards and each carrying a little plaque saying who. It is a short, shaded drive or a good walk, and it links the hotels to the Japanese garden and the islet at the far end.
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Boiling Pots and Peepee Falls - the river's stepped basins
nature wildlife scenicA couple of minutes upstream from Rainbow Falls, the Wailuku River runs through a chain of round pools scoured into old lava. After heavy rain, water pushes between them underground and the pools churn and boil, which is the whole show and depends entirely on how much has fallen. Viewing is from the lookout only; the river is far more dangerous than it looks and people drown in it.
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Kaumana Caves - walking into an 1881 lava tube
adventure nature wildlifeA county park on the road up out of town where a stairway drops into a collapsed skylight in the lava tube that fed the flow which stopped at the edge of Hilo in 1881. Two directions of unlit tube lead off from the bottom, with roots hanging through the roof and glassy drips frozen on the walls. Bring a proper torch and sturdy shoes; there is no lighting, no handrail and a lot of loose rock.
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Richardson Ocean Park - black sand, turtles and a sheltered snorkel
nature wildlifeThe end of the Keaukaha coast road, where a lava shelf makes a protected pocket of black sand and clear water fed by cold freshwater springs. It is the best easy snorkelling in Hilo, with green turtles grazing the shallow rock most days, and it gets busy with local families at weekends. Bring reef shoes for the lava.
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Onekahakaha Beach Park - the walled pool for small children
nature wildlifeA shallow, boulder-walled saltwater pond on the same stretch of coast, warm, calm and about knee deep, which makes it the toddler beach for the whole town. Grass, ironwood shade and picnic pavilions behind it. The unprotected water beyond the wall is a different proposition entirely and is not for swimming.
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Lyman Museum and Mission House - missionary Hilo and the island's rocks
history culture artsThe 1839 house of a missionary family, the oldest wood-frame building on the island, with the furniture and the wavy window glass they arrived with, alongside a modern museum next door covering the island's volcanic geology, its Hawaiian material culture and the plantation migrations. The mineral collection is far better than a town this size has any business having.
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Hawaii Tropical Bioreserve and Garden - the ravine garden above Onomea Bay
nature wildlife scenicA privately made botanical garden a short drive north, dropping down a stream ravine through palms, gingers, orchids and enormous heliconia to a rocky bay with a waterfall at its head. Boardwalks the whole way, humid as a glasshouse, and reached along the four-mile scenic detour off the highway that is worth taking for itself.
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Kilauea Iki Trail - crossing the floor of a 1959 lava lake
hiking nature wildlifeThe best walk in the national park and the one to do if you only do one: a loop of a few miles that descends through dripping rainforest into a crater, then crosses its flat, cracked black floor, still steaming in places, under the cinder cone that fountained lava nearly two thousand feet high in 1959. The far side climbs back out through ohia forest. Cairns mark the crossing, there is no shade on the floor, and the weather up there is nothing like the coast.
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Downtown Hilo - the plantation-era bayfront blocks
culture arts historyTwo or three walkable streets of low timber and concrete storefronts from the sugar years, saved from demolition largely by the fact that the town's money left, and now holding galleries, second-hand bookshops, a restored 1920s cinema still running films and live shows, and the counter restaurants that serve the town. The seaward side of the street is grass, because the buildings that stood there are gone.
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Panaewa Rainforest Zoo and Gardens - the small zoo in the rain
nature wildlifeA county zoo south of town set in genuine rainforest, small and homely, with a white tiger as its headline resident along with lemurs, a peacock population that has clearly gone feral, and a good collection of tropical plants. Boardwalks and cover throughout, so it works on the sort of day that shuts everything else down.
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Big Island Candies - the shortbread factory on the industrial edge
foodA confectionery works with a viewing window onto the production floor, where macadamia shortbread is dipped in chocolate at some speed, and a shop that hands out samples with coffee. It is unashamedly a factory outlet and it is also the single most reliable gift purchase on the island, which is why half of Hilo's visitors end up here.
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Honolii Beach Park - the town's surf break
surfingA river-mouth break just north of the centre, cut into a black cove with a steep stairway down and a clifftop car park that doubles as the grandstand. It is where Hilo surfs, from schoolkids after class to the old guard, and it is a local wave rather than a visitor one; the rip at the river mouth is real and the water goes brown after rain.
Best areas to stay in Hilo
$ Budget $$ Mid-range $$$ Premium
Banyan Drive and the Waiakea Peninsula
First-time visitors $$Bayfront hotel strip under old banyans
Explore hotels in Banyan Drive and the Waiakea Peninsula →
Downtown and the bayfront
Walkers and browsers $Plantation-era storefronts on a walkable grid
Explore hotels in Downtown and the bayfront →
Keaukaha
Families and swimmers $$Quiet coast road of beach parks
Explore hotels in Keaukaha →
Waiakea Uka and Puainako
Budget and self-catering $Suburban rainforest shelf above town
Explore hotels in Waiakea Uka and Puainako →
Volcano Village
Volcano-first trips $$Misty fern forest at the park gate
Explore hotels in Volcano Village →
Live nightly prices from Booking.com, Agoda and others, centred on Hilo
Getting to & around Hilo
Getting there
Fly into Hilo on the island's windward side, about ten minutes from downtown, or cross from the Kona side on Saddle Road in roughly two hours
Flight
Hilo International Airport (ITO)
Hilo's airport sits between the town and the Keaukaha coast, a genuinely small terminal about ten minutes from downtown and five from the Banyan Drive hotels. Interisland flights from Honolulu run all day and take under an hour; direct mainland service exists but is thin and seasonal compared with the Kona side. Almost everyone picks up a hire car at the terminal, because the alternative is a limited county bus network. Reckon on about forty-five minutes up the highway to the national park and around an hour to the Mauna Kea visitor station. Many visitors deliberately fly into one side of the island and out of the other, since Kona has far more flights and the drive between them is a good one.
Flight
Honolulu and the neighbour islands
The interisland hop from Honolulu is well under an hour and runs frequently through the day, which is how most people reach Hilo; connections through Kona are also common
Drive
Saddle Road from Kona and Waimea
The rebuilt highway across the island's waist, between its two great shield volcanoes, is now a modern road and the standard crossing from the leeward side at roughly two hours. It climbs past six thousand feet, gets fog and rain on the Hilo descent, and is where the Mauna Kea access road leaves. Check your rental agreement, since some still carry restrictions on unpaved spurs off it
Drive
Hamakua coast highway
The longer way round from the north and west, following the cliffs and old sugar villages up the windward coast through Honokaa and Waimea. Slower than the saddle and much prettier, with the waterfall parks and valley lookouts strung along it
Cruise
Hilo Harbor
Ships berth at the commercial pier across the bay from town. A call here realistically buys you either the national park or the waterfall coast, not both, and the town centre is a short ride away
Getting around
Car
Effectively essential. Distances in town are short, parking is easy and free-flowing by mainland standards, and everything worth driving to - the park, the mountain, the waterfall coast - assumes you have one
TBC
County bus
The island's Hele-On network radiates from the downtown terminal and does reach the volcano, the Hamakua coast and Kona. Real and genuinely cheap, but infrequent and built around commuters and school runs, so it only works if you plan the day around the timetable
TBC
Taxi and rideshare
Both operate around the airport, downtown and the hotel strip, and both thin out sharply in the evening and away from the centre. Fine for a transfer, not a way to see the island
TBC
Walking
Downtown, the bayfront parks, the Japanese garden and the banyan loop all join up on foot along the bay, which is the one properly walkable stretch. Carry a rain jacket rather than plan around the rain
Free
Day trips from Hilo
Hawaii Volcanoes National Park
Full dayActive volcano park
The summit caldera, the steaming ground and sulphur banks along the rim, a walk-through lava tube in tree-fern forest, the crater-floor crossing on the Kilauea Iki loop, and Chain of Craters Road dropping to a coast where lava buried the highway. Weather up there runs cold, wet and windy regardless of what Hilo is doing, so take layers. Check the park's eruption and closure status the morning you go, and stay for dark if anything is glowing.
Getting there
car | bus | tour
About 45 min each way by car up Highway 11, or a slow county bus run
Mauna Kea visitor station
Half dayHigh-altitude stargazing
Sunset above the cloud deck from the visitor station, then a sky with almost nothing in the way of it. Stop and acclimatise before going higher, take far more clothing than the coast suggests, and treat the road beyond the station as four-wheel-drive-only and off-limits to most hire agreements. Guided trips handle the vehicle, the altitude briefing and the telescopes; going up under your own steam is straightforward as far as the station and no further.
Getting there
car | tour
About 1 hr each way by car via Saddle Road to roughly nine thousand feet
Akaka Falls and the Hamakua coast
Half dayWaterfall coast drive
North along cliffs cut by gulches every few miles: the four-mile scenic detour above a rocky bay with a ravine botanical garden in it, the old sugar village of Honomu, the paved loop walk to a four-hundred-foot waterfall, and a lava point below the highway where a schoolhouse and its pupils were lost to the 1946 wave. Easy driving and the greenest stretch of the island.
Getting there
car
About 25 min each way by car north on Highway 19, longer with the scenic detour
Puna and the 2018 lava field
Full dayFresh lava coast
The strangest district on the island, where a 2018 rift eruption buried whole subdivisions, a famous set of tide pools and a warm spring, and added new land to the coast. There are lava-cast tree moulds in a state monument, a black sand beach that did not exist a decade ago beside a boat ramp lifted out of the water, and the end of the road at Kalapana where an earlier flow swallowed a village and a highway. Roads change here; drive it with an open plan and respect for private and homestead land.
Getting there
car
About 40 min each way by car south-east on Highway 130
Waipio Valley lookout and Honokaa
Full dayCliff-walled valley
The far end of the windward coast, where the cliffs are cut by a deep taro valley with a black sand river mouth, a waterfall on the back wall and one of the steepest public roads in the country going down into it. Access to the valley floor has been restricted, so plan on the lookout as the destination and check before you count on going down. Honokaa on the way is a plantation main street that has aged well.
Getting there
car
About 1.5 hr each way by car up the Hamakua coast
Kona and the leeward coast
Full dayDry resort side
The other island entirely: hot, dry, black lava and blue water, with a seafront town of historic churches and a royal palace, coffee farms terraced on the hillside above it, a walled place of refuge on the old fishing coast to the south, and snorkelling bays that Hilo cannot match. Cross on the saddle, come back around the north coast if you want the loop, and start early.
Getting there
car
About 1.5-2 hr each way by car across Saddle Road
A little history of Hilo
Polynesian settlers took the sheltered ground behind Hilo Bay early, drawn by two river mouths and a windward coast that grows things without being asked twice. By the end of the 1700s the bay mattered enough that Kamehameha assembled and built his war fleet here for the campaign to finish unifying the islands. Missionaries arrived in the 1820s and set up a station that became one of the most consequential in the Pacific, and from the middle of the century Hilo was the port for the sugar plantations strung along the Hamakua cliffs to the north. Cane went out; contract labour came in from China, Japan, Portugal, the Azores and the Philippines, and the mix of those camps is still what Hilo sounds like and eats like.
The town's modern shape was set by water. On April Fool's morning in 1946 a tsunami raised by an earthquake in the Aleutians ran up the bay with no warning and tore out the waterfront, killing about a hundred and sixty people across the islands, including teachers and pupils at a coastal school north of town. In 1960 waves from the great Chilean earthquake arrived at night and killed sixty-one people here, flattening the Waiakea district. Rather than rebuild on the same ground, Hilo turned the low bayfront into parks and playing fields, which is why a city of forty-odd thousand faces its harbour across a strip of grass. Sugar wound down through the 1990s, and the town now runs on county government, the university, the astronomy operations that support the mountain, and the visitors who use it as the door to the volcano. Each spring it also fills for the hula competition that has been at the centre of the Hawaiian cultural revival since the 1960s.
Polynesian settlers occupy the river mouths behind Hilo Bay, on the wettest and most fertile side of the island
Kamehameha gathers and builds his peleleu war fleet on Hilo Bay for the campaign to unify the islands
The American mission opens a station at Hilo, followed by schools and a printing operation
Titus Coan's Hilo revival converts Hawaiians in their thousands, one of the largest religious upheavals in the Pacific
The Lyman mission house is built, still standing as the oldest wood-frame building on the island
Sugar takes the Hamakua coast and Hilo becomes its port, with contract labour arriving from China, Japan, Portugal and the Philippines
A Mauna Loa flow reaches the edge of Hilo and stops, leaving the lava tube now open as Kaumana Caves
An Aleutian earthquake sends a tsunami into Hilo Bay, destroying the waterfront and killing about a hundred and sixty people across Hawaii
Hawaii becomes the fiftieth state, and Kilauea Iki erupts in fountains close to two thousand feet high
Waves from the Chilean earthquake kill sixty-one people in Hilo; the destroyed bayfront is rebuilt as open parkland
The Merrie Monarch hula festival is founded in Hilo, becoming the centre of the Hawaiian cultural revival
The University of Hawaii opens its telescope on Mauna Kea, the start of the summit observatory complex
Mauna Loa erupts and a flow halts a few miles above the town
The last sugar plantations on the island shut down, ending the industry that built the coast
Kilauea's lower rift eruption buries villages in Puna while the summit crater collapses and deepens
Native Hawaiian demonstrators block the Mauna Kea access road against a planned giant telescope, halting construction
Mauna Loa erupts for the first time in thirty-eight years, lighting the sky above Saddle Road
Know before you go
Payment
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English
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Wifi
Reliable
Power
Type A / B
120 V, 60 Hz
Dialing
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FAQs about Hilo
▸ When is the best time to visit Hilo?
There is no dry season, so pick for degree rather than for sunshine. January, the late spring into early summer window and September tend to give the most usable days. Late winter and the long stretch from mid-autumn into the holidays are the greyest and wettest, and August is the hottest and most humid, in the busier half of the central Pacific storm season. Whenever you come, plan indoor options for the afternoons and expect the mountain and the volcano to have their own weather.
▸ Does it really rain every day in Hilo?
Close to it. This is the wettest city in the United States, and the rain is a way of life rather than an event. It mostly arrives as heavy showers, often overnight or in the afternoon, with bright breaks between them, so a day here is rarely a washout even though it will rain at some point. The practical answer is a rain jacket instead of an umbrella, quick-drying clothes, and a plan that lets you swap outdoors for indoors on an hour's notice.
▸ How many days do you need in Hilo?
Three is the working minimum: one for the national park, one for the waterfall coast or the mountain, and one for the town, its beach parks and museums. Five lets you add Puna, a second and better day at the volcano, and a proper night on Mauna Kea without cramming. If Hilo is one half of a Big Island trip with the Kona side, three nights here is the usual split.
▸ Should you stay in Hilo or Kona?
They are opposite holidays on one island. Kona is dry, sunny, resort-shaped and better for beaches and boat trips; Hilo is wet, green, cheap by Hawaiian standards, closer to the volcano and the mountain, and a real town rather than a visitor coast. If you want to swim and lie in the sun, go west. If you want the volcano, the waterfalls, the rainforest and somewhere with its own life, stay here. Doing both, with a few nights on each side, is the answer most people arrive at.
▸ Do you need a car in Hilo?
Yes, in practice. The county bus network is real and reaches the volcano and the far side of the island, but it runs on commuter frequencies and will not get you to a crater rim at dusk or a beach park in the morning. Rideshare works around the centre and the airport and thins out fast beyond them. Book a car ahead, especially in the holiday months, when island-wide supply gets tight.
▸ Can you see lava at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park?
Sometimes, and never on schedule. The volcano has gone through repeated episodes of summit activity in recent years, and when a vent is active the glow after dark is one of the great sights on earth. It can also be entirely quiet for long stretches. Check the park's current status before you drive up, and go in wanting the caldera, the lava tube, the crater walk and the coastal road, so that lava is a bonus rather than the trip.
▸ Can you drive to the summit of Mauna Kea?
The paved road ends at the visitor station at around nine thousand feet, and that is where most visitors should stop; it is also the best place for stars. Beyond it the road is steep and unsealed, requires genuine four-wheel drive, and is prohibited by most hire agreements. Altitude is the real constraint, not the road: the summit is close to fourteen thousand feet, and people underestimate it badly. Guided operators handle both problems, and the mountain is a sacred site, so go up as a guest rather than a sightseer.
▸ Are the beaches in Hilo any good?
They are good for swimming with children and snorkelling off black sand and lava, and poor if you want a wide golden strand. The coast east of the airport has a chain of sheltered county beach parks, including a walled shallow pond made for toddlers and a spring-fed cove where turtles graze the rocks. For classic resort beaches you drive to the other side of the island.
▸ Is Hilo expensive?
It is the most affordable base in Hawaii of any size. Rooms, food and rentals all cost noticeably less than the resort coasts, because this is a working county town rather than a visitor economy, and self-catering is easy with real supermarkets and a serious growers' market. Hawaii is still expensive by American standards, especially on groceries and hire cars, but the best things here - the park, the falls, the beach parks, the mountain road - cost little or nothing.
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