United States · Hawaii
Kauai
The oldest and greenest Hawaiian island, where the ring road quits at a wall of fluted sea cliffs you can only reach on foot, by boat or from the air.
Kauai is the oldest of the main Hawaiian islands, and several million years of rain have cut it into shapes the younger islands simply do not have: Waimea Canyon, ten miles of red and ochre gorge on its western shoulder, the fluted green sea cliffs of the Na Pali Coast, which no road has ever crossed, and a swamp-topped summit in the middle that is one of the wettest places on earth. One highway rings most of the island and gives up at both ends of that cliff coast, which is a large part of why the place still feels rural - taro fields, old plantation towns, and a county rule that nothing be built taller than a coconut palm. People come for the landscape rather than the resorts, and end up spending their time in the water, on trails and in the air rather than anywhere with a lobby.
Suggested stay
4–7 days
Language
English
Currency
USD
Timezone
UTC-10
Why you'll love Kauai
The cliffs sixteen miles of fluted green ridges dropping straight into the sea along the northwest coast, with no road across them and no way in except a hard cliff trail, a boat out of the harbours at either end, or an hour in the air
The canyon a gorge ten miles long and thousands of feet deep cut into the island's western shoulder in red, ochre and green, with a road up its rim that ends at lookouts staring down into the cliff valleys on the far side
The rain the summit at the island's centre catches an absurd amount of it, which is why the interior runs with waterfalls and the north shore is a wall of green, while the leeward south and west sit sunny half an hour's drive away
The scale one ring road, a handful of plantation towns, nothing built taller than a palm tree, and a slow small-town Hawaii the busier islands traded away decades ago
Best time to visit
Apr-Oct, Jan-Feb
26-30° days
21.972° N, 159.352° W
UTC-10 · Pacific/Honolulu
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Weather & when to go to Kauai
Month by month: typical highs and lows, rainfall and rain days.
✓ Best Apr-Oct, Jan-Feb
Watch for Jun-Nov cyclones & hurricanes risk
Cards tinted by calculated verdict · big number = typical daily high, small = low · hover for conditions
When to avoid Kauai
No bad season here - the water stays swimmable and the leeward south stays sunny in every month, so the question is which coast you are on rather than which month you come. The honest quirks are geographic and constant: the north and the interior are dramatically wetter than the south and west all year, the north-facing coast takes big open-ocean swell through the winter half of the year and turns easy summer snorkelling bays into places to watch rather than swim, and the softest weather sits around March and again in the closing weeks of the year, when the wet spells are most persistent and the holiday weeks bring the island's thickest crowds.
Top things to do in Kauai
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Waimea Canyon - the red gorge above the west side
scenic nature wildlife 👍 PopularA ten-mile gash in the island's western shoulder, a mile across and thousands of feet deep, its walls banded red, rust and grey with waterfalls threading down the green side canyons. The road climbs the rim from the coast in about forty minutes past a sequence of lookouts, and the drive keeps going up into cooler forest above it. Mornings are usually clearest; by afternoon the cloud that feeds all this rain tends to fill the head of the canyon.
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Na Pali Coast - the cliff wall with no road
scenic nature wildlife adventure 👍 PopularSixteen miles of pleated green cliffs standing thousands of feet out of the water on the island's northwest side, cut by hanging valleys that were farmed and settled for centuries and are now empty. There are exactly three ways to see it: the cliff trail from the north end, a boat from the harbour on the west side or out of the north shore in calm months, or a flight. Sea caves, a waterfall you can motor under and spinner dolphins come with the boat version.
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Hanalei Bay - the north shore's two-mile crescent
scenic surfing 👍 PopularA wide half-moon of sand under green mountains streaked with waterfalls, with an old wooden pier at one end and a taro valley of one-lane bridges behind it. Summer turns it into the calmest swimming and beginner surf on the north coast; winter turns it over to serious surfers and a lot of respectful spectating. The town at its back is a couple of streets of timber shopfronts, shave ice and surf shops.
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Kalalau Trail - the cliff path into the hanging valleys
hiking adventure scenic ⭐ Highly recommendedThe only way to walk the Na Pali coast: eleven miles of narrow, root-strewn, frequently muddy trail traversing above the sea to a beach at the foot of a valley nobody drives to. Most people do the first two miles to a stream and beach, or push another two inland to a tall waterfall; going beyond that needs a camping permit and a real head for exposure. The stream crossings flash-flood, the beach at the two-mile mark has a grim drowning record, and neither is a place for improvisation.
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Kokee State Park and the Kalalau Lookout - the rim above the cliff valleys
hiking scenic nature wildlife ⭐ Highly recommendedKeep driving past the canyon lookouts and the road climbs into cool koa and ohia forest at four thousand feet, ending at two lookouts that stare straight down a Na Pali valley to the sea. Trails run off the ridge in every direction, including a boardwalk out over the swamp below the island's summit. The cloud comes and goes on a ten-minute cycle up here, so wait it out rather than driving off - and bring a jumper, because it is genuinely cold.
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Poipu Beach Park - the sunny south-shore swimming coast
nature wildlife scenicA pair of small bays joined by a sand spit on the dry south side, with a shallow lifeguarded pool that suits small children, reef fish a few strokes out and a break at the far end for beginner surfers. Hawaiian monk seals, one of the rarest seals on earth, regularly haul out and doze on the sand behind roped-off cordons; the rule is to keep well back and let them sleep.
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Kilauea Point - the lighthouse headland and seabird colony
nature wildlife historyA stubby 1913 lighthouse on a cliff at the island's northernmost point, wrapped in a wildlife refuge that is one of the easiest seabird spectacles in the Pacific. Red-footed boobies nest on the slope in the thousands, tropicbirds and frigatebirds ride the updraught off the cliff, Laysan albatross nest on the grass in the winter half of the year, and the state's endangered nene geese wander the car park like they own it.
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Wailua River - kayak up the only navigable river in the islands
adventure nature wildlife historyA broad, flat, jungle-lined river running out of the island's wet interior on the east side, paddled from a boat ramp near the mouth up to a landing where a muddy walk leads to a waterfall dropping into a swimming pool. Barges also run up to a fern-hung lava grotto that has been a sightseeing fixture since the 1940s. The valley was the island's royal centre, and there are temple platforms and a birthing-stone site on the bluff above.
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Polihale State Park - the end of the road under the cliffs
off beaten path scenicThe longest beach in the state, a wide-open strand of sand running for miles to the point where the Na Pali cliffs begin, reached down a rutted former cane-haul track that punishes ordinary hire cars and turns to soup after rain. There is no shade, no lifeguard and a shorebreak that dumps hard, so this is a sunset-and-stars beach rather than a swimming one, with Niihau sitting out on the horizon.
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Mahaulepu Heritage Trail - the wild coast past the south-shore resorts
hiking nature wildlife off beaten pathA cliff walk east from the end of the Poipu hotels along lithified sand dunes, sea arches and blowholes to a string of empty bays, with humpbacks offshore in the winter months. Halfway along, a collapsed limestone cave holds the richest fossil site in the islands, where flightless birds and the debris of an old tsunami came out of the mud. Almost nobody walks the far half of it.
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Tunnels and Kee Beach - the reef under the mountains
diving scenicThe two snorkelling reefs at the very end of the north shore road, sheltered inside a shallow lagoon with a wall of green mountain rising directly behind the sand. In the calm months this is the best easy snorkelling on the island; in the swell months the same water is lethal and closed off by the surf. Access to this end of the coast runs on a booked entry and parking system, or a shuttle from town.
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Waialeale crater - the doors-off flight into the wet interior
scenic adventureThe centre of the island is a cloud-wrapped summit and a bowl of thousand-foot waterfalls that no road and no trail reaches, so the only way in is a helicopter, and Kauai runs more of them than anywhere else in the state. A circuit takes in the canyon, the cliff coast and the crater when the cloud lifts. It is loud, it is not cheap, and it is the one flightseeing trip in the islands that shows you something you genuinely cannot otherwise see.
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Ke Ala Hele Makalae - the coastal path along the east side
scenic nature wildlifeA paved walking and cycling path running for miles along the Kapaa shoreline on an old cane railway alignment, past beach parks, a headland lookout and long stretches where there is nothing between the path and the reef. Flat, breezy and easy, it is the only serious car-free stretch on the island and the best place to be at first light.
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Nounou Mountain - the Sleeping Giant ridge above the east coast
hiking scenicThe long ridge behind Kapaa looks like a reclining figure from the highway, and three trails climb it from either side to a picnic bench on the chest with the coast, the river valley and the interior mountains all laid out. It takes a bit over an hour up, is muddy in its lower forest, and the scramble to the giant's head at the end is exposed enough that plenty of people sensibly stop short.
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Allerton and McBryde Gardens - the botanical valley at Lawai
nature wildlife culture artsA steep tropical valley on the south coast holding the national tropical botanical garden: one half a research collection of Pacific island plants, the other a series of outdoor rooms, fountains and a bamboo grove laid out around an old queen's cottage. Guided access only on the designed half, and the fig trees with the enormous buttress roots are the ones from the opening of a certain dinosaur film.
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Old Koloa Town - the first sugar plantation in Hawaii
history culture artsA short row of restored plantation-era shopfronts under monkeypod trees where the islands' sugar industry began in 1835, with a small open-air monument telling the story through the Chinese, Japanese, Portuguese and Filipino labour that followed it - which is where most of local Hawaii's food and speech comes from. A tunnel of eucalyptus on the road in is half the pleasure.
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Hanapepe - the swinging bridge and the west-side galleries
culture arts off beaten pathA dusty one-street town above a taro valley that calls itself Kauai's biggest little town, with a pedestrian suspension bridge that bounces alarmingly over the river, a bookshop, a salt pond worked by families in the traditional way nearby, and more galleries than the population can explain. The animated version of small-town Kauai in a well-known Disney film was drawn from here.
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Kauai Coffee at Kalaheo - walking the largest coffee farm in the country
food scenicOld sugar land on the sunny south slope replanted with millions of coffee trees, now the biggest coffee estate in the United States, with a self-guided walk through the rows and a tasting bar working through the estate's varieties. It is a genuinely interesting look at what replaced cane, and the drive out passes the tunnel of trees and the canyon turn-off.
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Wailua Falls - the double drop off the east-side highway
scenic nature wildlifeA twin curtain of water falling into a green pool at the end of a short spur road inland from Lihue, visible from the guardrail with no walking involved, which is why it is the island's easiest waterfall and its most photographed. Best in the morning light and after rain. The steep scramble down to the pool is eroded, unofficial and regularly injures people.
Best areas to stay in Kauai
$ Budget $$ Mid-range $$$ Premium
Poipu
First-time visitors $$Sunny south-shore resort and condo coast
Explore hotels in Poipu →
Princeville and Hanalei
Cliffs & scenery $$$Green north shore, cliffs and taro
Explore hotels in Princeville and Hanalei →
Kapaa and the Coconut Coast
Central & good value $$Central east-side town, casual and walkable
Explore hotels in Kapaa and the Coconut Coast →
Lihue
Budget & convenience $County town by the airport and harbour
Explore hotels in Lihue →
Waimea and the west side
Canyon & quiet $Dry old plantation towns, big skies
Explore hotels in Waimea and the west side →
Live nightly prices from Booking.com, Agoda and others, centred on Kauai
Getting to & around Kauai
Getting there
Fly into Lihue on the east side, pick up a hire car at the airport, and the ring road puts the whole island within about an hour and a half
Flight
Lihue Airport (LIH)
Lihue Airport sits on the coast at the edge of the county town on the east side, taking direct flights from several US west coast cities and a shuttle service from Honolulu that runs all day and takes about half an hour in the air. It is a small, open-sided terminal, and almost everyone walks straight to the rental centre because a car is close to essential on Kauai. Reckon on about 15 to 20 minutes north to Kapaa, half an hour southwest to Poipu, 45 minutes to an hour west to Waimea, and an hour to an hour and a quarter north to Princeville and Hanalei. Some hotels run their own shuttles and pre-booked vans cover the main coasts; taxis and rideshare handle a straight transfer but leave you stuck afterwards.
Flight
Honolulu and the neighbour islands
The interisland hop from Honolulu is roughly half an hour and runs frequently through the day, so Kauai bolts easily onto an Oahu trip or connects from anywhere the mainland flights do not serve directly. There is no passenger ferry between the Hawaiian islands, so flying is the only way in
Cruise
Nawiliwili Harbor
Ships tie up at the commercial harbour just south of the airport, a short ride from Lihue. Almost every Hawaii itinerary calls here, usually for a day or two; the canyon or the north shore is a realistic day out from the pier, but not both
Getting around
Car
The default and, for most of what people come for, the only workable option. Book well ahead in the holiday months, and note that the highway through Kapaa on the east side backs up badly at commuting hours in both directions
TBC
County bus
A small fixed-route network links Lihue, Kapaa, Poipu, Hanapepe and the west-side towns on roughly hourly headways, with a limited run north. Real and cheap, but it does not reach the canyon, the end of the north shore road or most beaches, so treat it as a backup rather than a plan
TBC
North shore shuttle
A dedicated shuttle runs from Hanalei out to the state park at the end of the road, and is the alternative to the limited booked parking there. Worth building a north shore day around, because the parking slots go long before the shuttle seats do
TBC
Taxi and rideshare
Works around the airport, Lihue and the south shore resorts, thins out in the evening and on the west side, and is close to useless as a way of getting to trailheads or the far ends of the island
TBC
Bike
The paved coastal path on the east side is genuinely good riding for miles, and there is a small road scene on the quieter west-side highways. The ring road itself is narrow, shoulderless and busy in places, so it is not a way of touring the island
TBC
Walking
Hanalei, Kapaa, Koloa, Hanapepe and Waimea are all small enough to walk end to end, and the Poipu beach front strings together on foot. Nothing else on Kauai is walkable between destinations
Free
Day trips from Kauai
Waimea Canyon and Kokee State Park
Full dayCanyon rim and cloud forest
One road does the whole thing: canyon lookouts over a mile-wide gorge of red rock and waterfalls, then cooler forest, a small natural history museum, short rim trails, and at the top two lookouts staring down a Na Pali valley to the sea. Go early for the clear air, take a jumper for the altitude, and be ready to wait out the cloud at the far lookouts rather than give up on them.
Getting there
car | tour
About 1-1.5 hr each way by car from the south or east coasts, climbing from sea level to around four thousand feet
Na Pali Coast by boat
Half dayCliff coast cruise
The classic Kauai boat morning: a run up under sixteen miles of fluted cliffs, into sea caves and past waterfalls that fall straight into the water, usually with spinner dolphins escorting the boat and a snorkel stop at a reef along the way. Rafts get further into the caves, catamarans are the comfortable option, and the ocean is calmer early in the day whichever you pick.
Getting there
car | tour
About 45 min by car to the west-side harbour, then several hours on a catamaran or raft; north shore departures run only in the calm months
Haena State Park and the Kalalau trailhead
Full dayEnd of the north road
The very end of the highway, where a wet valley of caves and reef sits under vertical green mountains and the cliff trail begins. Entry, parking and the shuttle all run on a booking system introduced after the road reopened, and slots go well ahead. Most people walk the first stretch of the trail to the stream and beach, snorkel the lagoon in the calm months, and stay well out of the water when there is any surf at all.
Getting there
car | bus | walk
About 1.5 hr each way by car from the south shore, or the shuttle from Hanalei
Wailua River and the interior falls
Half dayJungle river paddle
The only navigable river in the islands, running flat and brown between jungle walls out of the wettest interior in Hawaii. Kayaks head upstream to a landing and a slippery track in to a waterfall with a pool under it; barges go instead to a fern-hung lava grotto. The valley was the island's royal seat, so there are heiau platforms and royal birthstones on the bluffs above the mouth.
Getting there
car | tour | walk
About 15-30 min by car from the east coast bases to the boat ramp, then a couple of hours of flat paddling and a short muddy walk
Polihale and the west coast
Half dayEmpty beach and dunes
Miles of open sand running up to the foot of the Na Pali cliffs at the far western end of the island, with dunes behind, no shade, no facilities to speak of and the forbidden island of Niihau on the horizon. The access track is rough and floods, hire agreements often exclude it, and the shorebreak is dangerous - it is a sunset, stars and long-walk beach rather than a swimming one.
Getting there
car
About 1.5 hr each way by car from the south shore, the last stretch on a rutted dirt cane road
Island circuit by helicopter
Half dayAerial interior tour
Roughly three quarters of Kauai is unreachable by road or trail, which is why flightseeing is a bigger deal here than on any other island. A circuit takes in the canyon from above, the cliff coast end to end and, when the cloud cooperates, the waterfall-walled crater below the island's summit. Morning flights get the smoothest air, and doors-off is loud, cold and much the better version.
Getting there
flight
About an hour in the air from Lihue or the west side, plus check-in time
A little history of Kauai
Kauai is the oldest of the main islands and was almost certainly among the first settled, with Polynesian voyagers arriving within roughly the last thousand years and building a society around the wet windward valleys, where taro terraces and irrigation ditches fed a large population on the river flats and in the hanging valleys of the cliff coast. Its separation from the rest of the archipelago by a wide, rough channel shaped everything that followed: it is where Captain Cook made the first European landfall in Hawaii, at the river mouth on the west side in January 1778, and it is the one island Kamehameha never took by force. Two invasion fleets failed, one broken up by a storm in the channel and one by an epidemic that swept through the army before it sailed, and the kingdom was finally completed in 1810 by negotiation, when Kauai's chief agreed to hold the island as a vassal.
The nineteenth century brought missionaries, whaling ships calling for supplies, and an odd Russian interlude when an agent of the Russian-American Company talked the island's chief into building a fort at the river mouth before the scheme collapsed. Sugar took hold at Koloa on the south coast in 1835, the first successful plantation in the islands, and the industry that followed reshaped the population with contract labour from China, Japan, Portugal, Korea and the Philippines. The kingdom was overthrown in 1893 and the islands annexed in 1898; statehood came in 1959, and tourism replaced agriculture over the following decades as the plantations wound down one by one, the last of them in the 2000s. Two events since then define how the island looks and works: Hurricane Iniki, which crossed the island in September 1992 as the strongest hurricane on record to strike Hawaii and flattened much of it, and the flooding of April 2018, when extraordinary rainfall cut the north shore road for more than a year and led to the booking system that now governs its far end.
Polynesian voyagers settle Kauai, farming taro in the wet windward valleys and along the cliff coast
Cook's ships anchor off Waimea, the first European landfall anywhere in the Hawaiian islands
Kamehameha's two invasion attempts fail, one wrecked by a storm in the channel and one by an epidemic in his army
Kauai's chief Kaumualii accepts Kamehameha's sovereignty by agreement, completing the kingdom without a battle
An agent of the Russian-American Company builds a fort at Waimea before the venture is abandoned
Koloa becomes the first commercially successful sugar plantation in Hawaii, starting the plantation era
The Hawaiian Kingdom is overthrown; the United States annexes the islands five years later
The lighthouse goes up on the island's northern point, later guiding the first flights across the Pacific
Hollywood discovers the island's valleys and beaches, beginning a run of filming that has never really stopped
Hawaii becomes the fiftieth state
Hurricane Iniki crosses Kauai, the strongest hurricane recorded to hit Hawaii, destroying thousands of homes
The island's last sugar plantation stops milling on the west side, ending the industry that began at Koloa
Record April rainfall floods the north shore and cuts the road beyond Hanalei for more than a year
The north shore road reopens with booked entry, parking and a shuttle at its far end, capping visitor numbers there
Know before you go
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FAQs about Kauai
▸ When is the best time to visit Kauai?
Any month works, so choose by what you want to do. Late spring through early autumn brings the calmest ocean, which is when the north shore reefs are snorkellable and the boats run to the cliff coast from both ends of the island. The winter half of the year brings big north-shore surf, whales offshore and the greenest landscape, with the wet spells most persistent around March and in the closing weeks of the year, when the holiday crowds also peak. The south coast stays sunny throughout.
▸ How many days do you need on Kauai?
Four is a sensible minimum: one for the canyon and the forest park above it, one on the water along the cliff coast, one for the north shore, and one that is simply a beach. Six or seven lets you add a river paddle, the west coast and a proper walk without spending the whole trip driving. Kauai is small, but the ring road is slow and the drive from one end to the other is longer than the map suggests.
▸ Do you need a car on Kauai?
Effectively yes. The county bus covers the main towns on a limited timetable and does not reach the canyon, most trailheads or the end of the north shore road, and rideshare thins out fast outside Lihue and the south coast. If you plan to sit on one resort beach for a week you could manage without, and everyone else should book a car well ahead, especially over the holidays.
▸ Do you need a reservation for the north shore state park and the Kalalau trailhead?
Yes. Since the road reopened after the 2018 floods, entry and parking at the park at the end of the road run on advance bookings for non-residents, with a shuttle from town as the alternative, and slots are released a set period ahead and go quickly. Day hiking the first stretch of the cliff trail is covered by that same entry; going beyond the second valley, or camping, needs a separate wilderness permit.
▸ How do you actually see the Na Pali Coast?
Three ways, and they show you different things. By boat from the west-side harbour, or from the north shore in the calm months, you get the scale of the cliffs, the sea caves and usually dolphins. On foot from the north end you get inside the first valleys, on a narrow, muddy and genuinely demanding trail. From a helicopter you get the whole coast plus the canyon and the crater at the island's centre, which no other method reaches. Many people do two of the three.
▸ North shore or south shore - where should you stay?
South if you want reliable sun, the easiest swimming, the shortest drives and the widest choice of places to stay; north if the cliff coast and the scenery are the point and you will accept more rain, rougher winter water and the longest run from the airport. The east side around Kapaa splits the difference and costs less. Plenty of people who stay a week move once rather than choose.
▸ Is Kauai good for families, or is it too quiet?
It suits families well on the south and east coasts, where the beaches are lifeguarded and shallow and the boat trips, the river and the coastal path all work with children. What it does not have is nightlife: there are a handful of bars, a luau or two and very little else after dinner, and the island shuts early. Travellers who want evenings out are on the wrong island and would be happier on Oahu or Maui.
▸ How safe is the swimming?
Ocean conditions here kill visitors most years, and the pattern is consistent: unguarded beaches, north-facing coasts in the swell season, and people entering the water where locals are not. Stick to lifeguarded beaches, read the posted signs rather than the weather, and treat the two-mile beach on the cliff trail as a place you do not swim at all. The south coast in summer is about as benign as Hawaiian water gets.
▸ Is Kauai expensive?
It is one of the pricier American destinations, on flights, rooms, hire cars and groceries alike, because nearly everything arrives by ship and the supply of rooms is deliberately limited. The usual ways around it are condos with a kitchen rather than resorts, the east side rather than the two resort coasts, and eating from fish counters, food trucks and farmers markets. The best of the island - the canyon road, the trails, the beaches - costs little or nothing.
▸ Can you take a ferry between the Hawaiian islands?
No. There is no passenger ferry linking Kauai to Oahu or anywhere else in the chain, so flying is the only way on and off. The interisland shuttle from Honolulu takes about half an hour and runs frequently, which makes island-hopping easy even though it means airports each time.
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