United States · Washington

Seattle

A port city wedged between salt water, a lake and two mountain ranges, where the ferries are commuter transport and the coffee is a civic institution.

Seattle is built on a narrow, hilly strip of land between an inland sea and a long freshwater lake, in the far northwest corner of the country, with two mountain ranges on the horizon and Mount Rainier standing over the southern skyline on the days it is visible. It is a working port and a tech capital at the same time, which shows in a downtown of glass towers dropping steeply to a container waterfront where car ferries come and go all day. The pleasures are a mixture of the outdoors and the indoors: cold-water seafood, coffee taken seriously, strong museums, a deep music history, and water or forest never more than a few minutes away.

Suggested stay

3–5 days

Language

English

Currency

USD

Timezone

UTC-7

Why you'll love Seattle

The setting  salt water on one side, a lake on the other, a serrated range to the west, the Cascades to the east and a glaciated volcano on the southern horizon, all visible from ordinary streets on a clear day

Food from cold water  Dungeness crab, spot prawns, oysters and salmon landed close to home, alongside some of the best Asian cooking in the country and a coffee culture the rest of the world copied

Water as transport  passenger and car ferries run as scheduled public transit across the sound, so the cheapest good view in the city is from the deck of a working boat

Music and making  a city that produced grunge, a guitar hero and a studio glass movement, with museums to match and a live scene that never really stopped

Best time to visit

Apr-Oct

15-25° days

Fair weather Nov-Mar
Seattle

47.604° N, 122.330° W

UTC-7 · America/Los Angeles

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Weather & when to go to Seattle

Month by month: typical highs and lows, rainfall and rain days.

✓ Best Apr-Oct

Jan
147mm
17d rain
Feb
10°
96mm
13d rain
Mar
12°
106mm
13d rain
Apr
15°
81mm
10d rain
May
19°
48mm
8d rain
Jun
22°
12°
37mm
7d rain
Jul
25°
14°
15mm
1d rain
Aug
25°
14°
25mm
2d rain
Sep
22°
12°
41mm
5d rain
Oct
16°
99mm
11d rain
Nov
11°
160mm
17d rain
Dec
145mm
17d rain

Cards tinted by calculated verdict · big number = typical daily high, small = low · hover for conditions

When to avoid Seattle

No month here is a write-off, but from November into March the city sits under low cloud and persistent drizzle with short, dark afternoons and the mountains hidden for weeks at a time, which suits museums and bars far better than viewpoints and ferries. The other caveat is the tail of summer, when smoke drifting in from regional fires can settle over the sound for a few days and take both mountain ranges off the skyline.

Top things to do in Seattle

  1. Pike Place Market - the working market above the waterfront

    food shopping 👍 Popular

    A covered market running since 1907 on a bluff over Elliott Bay, stacked over several levels of fishmongers, produce farmers, flower stalls, cheesemongers and a warren of small shops down the stairs at the back. The fish-throwing counter and the gum-covered alley draw the crowds, but the market is genuinely used by locals for groceries; come before mid-morning to see it working rather than performing, and note that the shopfront Starbucks calls its original sits on the cobbles opposite.

  2. Space Needle - the 1962 world's fair tower

    scenic history 👍 Popular

    The saucer on legs built for the Century 21 Exposition and still the shape everyone draws when they draw Seattle, with an observation level and a revolving glass floor near the top. The 360-degree view lays out the sound, the lake, the two mountain ranges and the volcano in one turn on a clear day, which is exactly the problem: it is worth timing around the weather rather than around your itinerary.

  3. Chihuly Garden and Glass - blown glass under the tower

    culture arts 👍 Popular

    Eight galleries and a glasshouse at the foot of the Space Needle showing the work of Dale Chihuly, who grew up down the road in Tacoma and turned studio glass into something architectural. Chandeliers, a ceiling of glass forms lit from above, and an outdoor garden where the pieces are planted among real foliage so it takes a second to tell them apart. The most photographed interior in the city, and it earns it.

  4. Washington State Ferries - walk on at Colman Dock and cross the sound

    scenic ⭐ Highly recommended

    The car ferries out of the downtown dock are ordinary public transport, and walking on as a foot passenger is the best-value hour in Seattle: the skyline pulls away astern, the Olympics fill the windscreen, and on the return leg the city comes back at you with the volcano behind it. The Bainbridge Island run is the classic, the Bremerton run is longer and quieter, and you can simply ride and come back.

  5. Ballard Locks - boats, fresh water, salt water and a salmon ladder

    nature wildlife history ⭐ Highly recommended

    The Hiram M. Chittenden Locks have joined Puget Sound to Lake Union and Lake Washington since 1917, and you can stand a metre from the wall while yachts, fishing boats and tugs are raised and lowered. A fish ladder alongside carries salmon back up to spawn, with underwater viewing windows where you can watch them push through in summer, and there is a small botanical garden on the bank above. Free, endlessly watchable and pure Seattle.

  6. Museum of Pop Culture - grunge, sci-fi and a crumpled Gehry building

    culture arts nightlife music

    Frank Gehry's shattered-guitar building at Seattle Center holds the deepest collection anywhere on Nirvana, Jimi Hendrix and the Northwest scene that produced them, alongside science fiction, fantasy and horror galleries and a sound lab where you can play badly in a soundproof room. Founded by a Microsoft co-founder as a Hendrix shrine and grown outwards from there; the monorail runs straight through the middle of the building.

  7. Kerry Park - the skyline view everyone else has already taken

    scenic

    A viewing terrace barely bigger than a tennis court on the south slope of Queen Anne hill, and the source of virtually every photograph of Seattle you have seen: towers, the Needle at the right height, cranes and ferries on the bay, and the volcano lined up behind on a clear day. Go at dusk when the lights come on. It is residential and cramped, so arrive on foot or by bus rather than hunting for a parking space.

  8. Museum of Flight - Boeing's first factory and a hangar of aircraft

    history culture arts

    At Boeing Field south of the centre, built around the red wooden barn where William Boeing started building seaplanes, and one of the great aviation museums anywhere. A Concorde, the first jet Air Force One, an SR-71 Blackbird, a full-fuselage space shuttle trainer and a hall of First World War and Second World War machines, with a walkway over the runway apron. Give it half a day, more if aircraft are your thing.

  9. Pioneer Square and the Underground - the city buried beneath itself

    history culture arts

    Seattle's oldest quarter, a compact grid of heavy Romanesque brick thrown up in a hurry after the 1889 fire, with a small park, art galleries and the free Klondike gold rush museum. Guided tours drop into the sealed storefronts and pavements one storey below the current street, left over from when the city raised its roads out of the tidal mud, and the guides tell the story with more comedy than reverence.

  10. Discovery Park - bluff trails to a lighthouse on the sound

    nature wildlife scenic

    The city's largest park occupies a former army post on the Magnolia headland, with meadows, second-growth forest, sea cliffs and a loop trail that swings out to a low white lighthouse on a spit of beach. Bald eagles, seals and the odd whale offshore, the Olympics straight across the water, and it is big enough that you can lose the city entirely for an hour.

  11. Seattle Central Library - the book spiral in a glass origami box

    culture arts

    Rem Koolhaas and OMA's central library, opened in 2004, is a folded glass and steel structure that still looks like nothing else downtown. Inside, the entire non-fiction collection runs up a continuous gentle ramp so the classification never breaks across floors, there is a startling red corridor of meeting rooms, and the tenth-floor reading room looks out over the bay. Free, open to anyone, and the best wet-afternoon building in the city.

  12. Seattle Art Museum and the Olympic Sculpture Park

    culture arts scenic

    The downtown museum is strong on Northwest Coast Indigenous art, Australian Aboriginal painting and Asian collections, with the hammering man silhouette outside the door. Its sculpture park is free and open all hours: a zigzag of reclaimed industrial land stepping down over the railway and the road to the beach, with large outdoor works and the sound and the Olympics as the backdrop.

  13. Fremont - the troll under the bridge and the self-declared centre of the universe

    off beaten path culture arts

    A canal-side neighbourhood that spent the 1990s declaring its independence in signage, best known for the concrete troll clutching a real Volkswagen Beetle under the north end of the Aurora Bridge, plus a salvaged Lenin statue, a rocket fuselage bolted to a shopfront and a Sunday street market. Walk the ship canal from here to Gas Works Park, a decommissioned coal gasification plant left standing on a lawn with the skyline across the water.

  14. Seattle coffee - the roasteries behind the chain

    food

    The city that exported espresso to the world drinks better than its most famous export suggests. Capitol Hill, Ballard and Georgetown carry the serious roasters, several of them working out of former warehouses with the drum in the room, and the standard order is a straight shot or a cortado rather than anything syrupy. Ordering to sit in and reading for an hour is entirely normal behaviour here, particularly in the rain.

  15. Volunteer Park - conservatory, water tower and a museum in the trees

    culture arts nature wildlife

    The green heart of Capitol Hill, laid out by the Olmsted brothers, with a Victorian glasshouse of palms and cacti, a brick water tower whose stairs deliver a free view over the city, and an art deco building holding the Asian art collection. A large black steel ring on the lawn frames the Space Needle almost exactly, which is not an accident anyone will admit to.

  16. Lumen Field and T-Mobile Park - the stadium pair south of downtown

    culture arts

    Two stadiums stand side by side at the southern edge of the centre, within walking distance of Pioneer Square. The gridiron and football ground has a reputation as one of the loudest in world sport, thanks to a roof design that traps the crowd noise, while the baseball park next door has a retractable roof, a serious food scene by stadium standards and a view of the cranes. Match days flood the light rail and the bars around them.

Best areas to stay in Seattle

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Getting to & around Seattle

Getting there

Fly into Seattle-Tacoma International and ride the 1 Line light rail into downtown in about 40 minutes

Flight

Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (SEA)

The airport sits about 22 km south of downtown. The 1 Line light rail station is reached on foot across a skybridge from the terminal garage and runs into the centre in roughly 40 minutes, continuing north to Capitol Hill and the university; it is the sane choice at any hour it is running. Taxis and rideshare take 25 to 40 minutes off-peak and considerably longer when I-5 is jammed, which is often. A smaller commercial airport north of the city at Everett handles a handful of west coast routes and is a long way from the centre.

Train

King Street Station

Amtrak Cascades runs south to Portland and north to Vancouver BC, the Coast Starlight comes up the west coast from Los Angeles and the Empire Builder crosses from Chicago; the clock-towered station is next to the stadiums, a short walk from Pioneer Square

Ferry

Colman Dock and Pier 69

State car ferries arrive from Bainbridge Island and Bremerton at the downtown dock, and a passenger-only catamaran crosses from Victoria in British Columbia to the pier just north of it

Cruise

Smith Cove and Bell Street piers

The main departure port for Alaska cruises through the northern summer, with terminals at Pier 91 north of the centre and Pier 66 on the downtown waterfront

Coach

Downtown and the university district

Intercity coaches run north to Vancouver BC and south to Portland along the I-5 corridor, plus scheduled shuttles east over the Cascades

Drive

I-5 and I-90

About 3 hr from Portland and 2 hr 30 min to 3 hr from Vancouver BC on I-5 including the border, with I-90 crossing the Cascades from the east; traffic on I-5 through the city is genuinely bad either side of the working day

Getting around

Link light rail

The 1 Line runs from the airport through downtown, Capitol Hill and the university and on north through a tunnel under the centre; a second line serves the Eastside. Frequent, fast and the backbone of a visit

TBC

One ORCA card covers Link light rail, Metro and regional buses, both streetcars, the monorail, the water taxi and state ferries as a foot passenger. Buy a card from a machine at any Link station or load one onto a phone, then tap on at the platform reader or as you board, and tap off again when you leave the light rail. Transfers between services within a couple of hours are covered on the same tap, and single-ride tickets from the machines work if you are only making one trip.

Bus (King County Metro)

A dense network including electric trolleybuses on the hills and frequent RapidRide lines to Ballard, West Seattle and the north end; the only direct way to reach most neighbourhoods off the rail line

TBC

Washington State Ferries

Scheduled car and passenger ferries from the downtown dock to Bainbridge Island and Bremerton, treated locally as commuter transport; walking on is quick and needs no booking, taking a car in summer does

TBC

West Seattle water taxi

A small passenger boat from a downtown pier across Elliott Bay to West Seattle in about ten minutes, with shuttle buses at the far end up to Alki Beach

TBC

Monorail

The two-minute 1962 relic between the downtown shopping core and Seattle Center; genuinely useful if you are staying downtown and visiting the Needle, and a curiosity either way

TBC

Streetcar

Two short unconnected lines, one through South Lake Union and one over First Hill to the international district; pleasant, slow, and rarely faster than walking

TBC

Walking

The centre is compact but seriously steep east to west, with stairs and lifts where the streets give up; between neighbourhoods you will want the rail or a bus

Free

Day trips from Seattle

Mount Rainier National Park

Full day

Glaciated volcano

The mountain that dominates the southern skyline, an active volcano carrying more glacier ice than anywhere else in the contiguous states. The subalpine meadows at Paradise put on one of the great wildflower displays in late July and August, with day walks up onto the snowfields and waterfalls on the way in. Roads to the high viewpoints are only reliably open from around late June to early October, timed entry has applied in peak season, and the mountain makes its own weather, so check before committing the day.

Getting there

car | tour

About 2 hr to 2 hr 30 min south-east by car to the Nisqually entrance; guided coach tours also run in summer

Bainbridge Island

Half day

Ferry-hop small town

The easiest escape from the city and the best reason to walk onto a ferry: half an hour across the sound with the skyline behind you, landing a few minutes' walk from a main street of bookshops, restaurants, a distillery and a small art museum. Beyond the village there are shoreline parks, a Japanese garden and a moving memorial to the island's Japanese American families, who in 1942 were the first in the country to be removed to the camps.

Getting there

ferry | walk

35 min by ferry from Colman Dock, then walk into Winslow

Snoqualmie Falls and the foothills

Half day

Waterfall and river valley

A broad waterfall dropping off a rock lip into a plunge pool below a working hydroelectric plant, with an upper viewing platform a few steps from the car park and a steep path down to the river. The valley below is the Twin Peaks landscape, complete with the diner and the lodge that appear in the series, and the foothill trails behind it are the closest real hiking to the city.

Getting there

car

About 40 min east by car on I-90

Olympic National Park

1-2 days

Rainforest and ridge

Three parks in one across the peninsula west of the city: a glaciated interior range reached by the road up to Hurricane Ridge, temperate rainforest of moss-hung Sitka spruce in the western valleys, and a wild strip of Pacific coastline with sea stacks and drift logs. Hurricane Ridge works as a long day trip from Seattle; the rainforest and the coast really want an overnight.

Getting there

ferry | car

Ferry to Bainbridge or Bremerton then 1 hr 30 min to 2 hr by car to Hurricane Ridge; the rainforest valleys are considerably further

Leavenworth and the Cascades

Full day

Alpine-themed mountain town

A former timber town that rebuilt itself as a Bavarian village in the 1960s to survive, and committed so hard that the petrol stations have half-timbering. It is knowingly kitsch and very busy, but the setting under the Cascade crest is superb, with river walks, orchards and cider, and the Enchantments trailheads nearby. The drive over the pass through the mountains is half the point.

Getting there

car | train

About 2 hr 15 min east by car over Stevens Pass on US-2, or by train to the edge of town

San Juan Islands

1-2 days

Island archipelago

An archipelago in the rain shadow near the Canadian border, greener and drier than the mainland, where the ferry threads between forested islands and orcas are a genuine possibility from the deck. San Juan Island has the whale-watching harbour and a strange shared British and American military history; Orcas has the mountain with the road to the top; Lopez is flat and made for bicycles. Doable in a very long day, much better with a night.

Getting there

car | ferry

About 1 hr 30 min north by car to Anacortes, then 1 to 2 hr by state ferry

Woodinville wine country

Half day

Tasting-room valley

Washington's grapes are grown in the hot, dry east of the state, but a great many of them are turned into wine and poured in this suburban valley half an hour from the city, where scores of tasting rooms sit in warehouse parks and old estates within walking distance of each other. Cabernet, merlot, syrah and riesling are the strengths, and the concentration makes it far easier than driving five hours to the vineyards themselves.

Getting there

car | tour

About 40 min north-east by car; driver-led tours are the sensible option

A little history of Seattle

Puget Sound is Coast Salish country, and the ground the city stands on belonged to Duwamish villages set along the rivers and the tideflats, with cedar longhouses at the mouth of the Duwamish River and seasonal camps around the lake. A settler party landed at Alki Point in November 1851, spent a miserable winter in the rain and moved across to the deeper anchorage of Elliott Bay the following spring. The settlement took its name from Si'ahl, the Duwamish and Suquamish leader who dealt with the newcomers, and grew around a steam sawmill on the shore; the greased track that logs were skidded down to it gave the language the phrase skid road, which the rest of the country later mangled into skid row.

Two events made the modern city. A glue pot boiling over in a cabinetmaker's shop in June 1889 burned the entire wooden business district to the ground, and the rebuild in brick and stone came with the streets raised a full storey out of the tidal mud, leaving the old shopfronts sealed underneath. Then in July 1897 a steamer docked with a shipload of Klondike gold, and Seattle successfully sold itself as the place to buy your outfit and your ticket north, taking a permanent cut of Alaska. Aircraft followed in 1916, and from there the twentieth century ran on Boeing, with a world's fair in 1962 and a brutal industrial slump in 1971 that emptied the city, before software, coffee and a very loud guitar scene rebuilt it again from the 1980s onwards.

Timeline
1851

A settler party lands at Alki Point in November and moves the following spring to the deeper water of Elliott Bay

1855

The Point Elliott treaty moves Coast Salish peoples onto reservations; the Duwamish, whose leader the city is named for, remain without federal recognition

1889

The Great Seattle Fire destroys the wooden business district in a single June afternoon; the rebuilt city is brick, and its streets are raised a storey

1897

A steamer arrives from the Klondike loaded with gold, and Seattle makes itself the outfitting port for the rush north

1909

The Alaska-Yukon-Pacific Exposition is held on the university grounds, whose layout the campus still follows

1916

William Boeing builds his first seaplanes in a red barn on the Duwamish River

1917

The ship canal and its locks open, linking Puget Sound to Lake Union and Lake Washington and lowering the big lake by several metres

1942

Japanese American families on Bainbridge Island are the first in the country removed to the incarceration camps under wartime order

1962

The Century 21 Exposition opens, leaving behind the Space Needle, the monorail and the Seattle Center grounds

1971

Boeing's collapse in orders guts local employment; a billboard asks the last person leaving to turn out the lights

1979

Microsoft relocates to the Seattle area, the start of the region's software industry

1991

Nirvana's second album breaks nationally and the local label sound of the previous few years becomes grunge worldwide

1999

World Trade Organization protests shut down the centre of the city and put tear gas on the evening news

2009

The first Link light rail line opens between downtown and the airport, the start of a regional rail network

2019

The double-deck waterfront freeway is demolished after traffic is moved into a bored tunnel, reconnecting downtown to its shoreline

Know before you go

Payment

Cards everywhere

English

Everywhere

Wifi

Reliable

Power

Type A / B

120 V, 60 Hz

Dialing

+1

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FAQs about Seattle

When is the best time to visit Seattle?

July through September is the reliable stretch and the reason people love the place: warm, dry, long evenings, and the mountains out. April through June is greener, quieter and cheaper with a real chance of showers, and June often opens grey before clearing late in the month. October holds up with autumn colour in the parks and the arboretum before the cloud settles in for the winter.

How many days do you need in Seattle?

Three days covers the market and the waterfront, the fair-ground museums, a neighbourhood or two and a ferry ride across the sound. Five lets you add a full day at the volcano or on the Olympic Peninsula, which is where the real drama of the region is, plus an afternoon at the aviation museum or the locks without rushing.

Does it really rain all the time in Seattle?

It rains often rather than heavily. The annual total is lower than several east coast cities, but it arrives as light persistent drizzle spread over a great many days between November and March, under low cloud and with the sun down by mid-afternoon. Summers are the reverse and can go weeks without a drop. Locals wear hooded shells and treat umbrellas as slightly embarrassing.

Do you need a car in Seattle?

Not in the city. The light rail from the airport, the bus network, the ferries and your legs cover everything, and downtown parking is expensive and awkward. You do want a car for the day trips: the volcano, the peninsula, the Cascades and the wine valleys are all far easier with one, though guided coach tours cover the mountain in summer and the island ferries need no car at all.

Can you see Mount Rainier from Seattle?

On a clear day, yes, and the scale of it is startling for something around 90 km away. Locals say the mountain is out, because for much of the winter it simply is not, hidden behind cloud for weeks. If it is visible on your first clear morning, go to a viewpoint then rather than saving it for later in the trip.

Is the Space Needle worth it, or is there a better view?

The Needle gives you the classic all-round view and the glass floor, but it is not the only option: the observation deck near the top of the tallest downtown tower is higher and looks back at the Needle itself, the old Smith Tower has a small speakeasy-styled deck with the best historic feel, and the viewpoint on Queen Anne hill costs nothing at all. Any of them are only worth it on a clear day.

Is Seattle expensive?

Yes by American standards, though less punishing than San Francisco or New York. Hotels and restaurants sit at big-city level and rise sharply through the summer peak, while the ferries, the locks, the sculpture park, the central library and most of the viewpoints cost nothing. Washington charges no state income tax but a high sales tax, so the price you see on a menu or a shelf is not the price you pay.

Is Seattle safe for visitors?

Broadly yes, with two practical caveats. Property crime is the real risk, particularly break-ins, so leave nothing visible in a parked car anywhere in the region. And parts of the downtown core, especially the Third Avenue transit corridor and the blocks around it, carry very visible drug use and street homelessness and feel grim after dark, so be deliberate about walking there late. Residential neighbourhoods feel ordinary and quiet.

Is riding a ferry worth it if you are not going anywhere?

Absolutely, and locals will tell you the same. Walking on as a foot passenger takes no booking, the crossing to the nearest island takes a little over half an hour each way, and you get the skyline, the shipping and both mountain ranges from an open deck. If you have a spare couple of hours and the sky is clear, it is the best thing you can do with them.

What is the Seattle Freeze?

A local shorthand for the city's reputation for being friendly but not forthcoming: people are polite, helpful with directions and slow to turn that into an actual invitation. Residents debate whether it is real or just a Nordic-settled, rainy-climate city where social life happens indoors among people who already know each other. As a visitor passing through you will mostly encounter the polite half.

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